13. Over the Snowy Mountains bound for Spirit of Tasmania

Au revoir and thanks Potato Point

2nd Dec. We left Potato Point eight days prior to boarding the Spirit of Tasmania. Having visited the coast further south on our shake down trip in May; this time we crossed the Snowy Mountains to arrive Melbourne on the 6^th Dec for a caravan service at the manufacturer.On route we saw a couple of deer, drove through a windfarm and sheep properties on plateau with barely a tree in sight. A pleasant big sky moonscape. I would hate to look out my window at a wind farm. I wonder what bush was there historically. Seems incredible how many trees European settlers removed in some places.

Brumby at Tom Groggin Camp
on the Murray River, Snowy Mtns

Glad I don't have a wind farm out my window...

Down into Jindabyne where we bought wine and firewood, and on through Thredbo on the Alpine Way around and down Mt Kosciusko towards our free camp at Geehi Flats. Evidence of harsh bush fires apparent on some faces of the mountain. It was getting late and we had lost range to read maps so we pulled into Tom Groggin Campground around 5.30 for a night – nice enough, had a visit from a brumby, but not somewhere we wanted to stay longer. It was free but the service station firewood cost $32! Pete committed to keep his battery powered chain saw charged and at the ready. He has become quite the firewood hunter gatherer since. 

 

View from Geehi Flat Campground

Pete in the Swampy Plain River,
beside our Snowy Mtns camp

We pushed on the next day to Geehi Flats Campground (free) and were so glad we did. What a beautiful camp beside the river. No wind and quite a bit of sun. Pete made his way into the Swampy Plain River several times a day – I found my way in once (in Debs cossie).

Inside Geehi Hut at Geehi Flat Camp

Pete tried his hand most days at trout fishing. He absolutely loved this camp and has said several times since it was his favourite camp - that he could be a mountain man. He loved the crystal clear river water and the grass outside the van door. The air was unbelievable and the ambiance was special. For an ocean man he surprised himself that he felt he could live there in the mountains.
I did some walking and apart from the magnificent views of the river and the mountain range backdrop with a skerrick of snow, I discovered a very sweet stone house restored after fire by National Parks for all to enjoy. It is unlocked and you can go in but not stay. It is completely empty. Originally built in 1952 by the Nankervis family who owned a large tract of land around there which is now incorporated in the Kosciusko NP. The stone house was used by various family members as they checked on or moved cattle around. 

Geehi Flat Campground

Geehi Flat Campground

Geehi Flat Campground

Geehi Flat Campground

Geehi Flat Campground

Geehi Flat Campground

Geehi Flat Campground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent two nights at Geehi Flats - I sat to read my way through a book my sister Peita gave me for my birthday – Honeybee by Craig Silvey. I enjoyed it – covered a lot of territory – lots of food for thought around gender and family, finding your tribe, and just how tough some kids do it and still manage to come out the other end. Will hand it on to an interested party or donate to a book swap. I have collected a number of books from such collections – in laundromats, sometimes at caravan parks. I have a pile of those actually and the memoir writing books I brought from home – lots to get on with in between all the other things of interest. I found a completely new and untouched sudoku book which I am loving – working on level 5 and getting it out without having to check the answers in the back sometimes. I remember when Danika was in year 12 Sudoku really helped her maths. I’m hoping to stave off dementia. Prevalent in females on my mother’s side.

Lounge dining and Donna's storage

bedroom and bathroom/storage room

It's an interesting lifestyle this – was talking to Pete about it – how it feels a little selfish to just do what you want when you want to – not to have a higher purpose so to speak. Having been a worker all my life, and connected to family and community

Pete's clothes storage,
vanity, one of two pantries

events and groups of people - It seems like the life I knew is detached and that when I get back I will see what remains. It’s a risk one takes when leaving home and community for an imagined two years – the inside world becomes very small – and the external world becomes very spacious. The company you keep is very much yourself and your partner; and the few friends and family who keep in contact when we are in range, seeing as much of the time we are camping remotely. This blog is my way of keeping in touch with friends and family as much as keeping a record of our trip. It also gives me an opportunity to write which I enjoy. It's a bit behind the times but it seems that's the way I roll. 

inside kitchen
(there is an outside kitchen)

The van is feeling like home, and we're bumbling along pretty well most of the time. I was saying to Pete that I think he is the only person I could do this with, 24/7 in a small space, together pretty much all the time. We like lots of the same things. We enjoy the same food. We are both good at entertaining ourselves. We know pretty much everything about each other by now so there are no secrets; nor many surprises unless intentional of course. And not everybody would regularly dive into the ocean in Tasmania for a bath as much as for pleasure in winter-like degrees. I am as mad as he. We’re still learning the best way to fight/repair – I think we are getting better at that. ‘They’ say that is the key – to repair well. I am learning a lot about myself and how I deal with difficult situations. I hold back for fear of being uncomfortable which I am realising actually creates misunderstandings that in time become, it seems, irreversible. I think that has happened in a few of my important relationships. Bugger. 

 

Murray 1 Power Station Lookout

We drove to Khancoban early - passing the Murray 1 Power Station Lookout on the way. We were delighted to find somewhere open for fuel and egg roll. We were on a mission to go via Albury to collect a motor part (on a Sunday) that Pete had teed up with a man (whose car part shop was in Holbrook and he was happy to take the part home for us to collect) and then to get to our free camp at the Tarrawingee Pub by 1pm. A band was playing and it seemed important to get there for some live music even though we had no idea who was playing what genre.

Old Tallangatta after town moved

We passed Old Tallangatta - where the 1870's town was moved 8kms up the road in the '50's so the Hume Weir could be exended. Amazing story. Made me think of dear old Lismore. Similarly we passed several entry points for the High Country Rail Trail – which also reminded me of Lismore where the rail trail has been on the agenda for pretty much twenty years… Lots of voices for and against. I am for. 

 

 

Hume Dam

over the back fence of the Tarrawingee Pub

We stopped to check out the Hume Dam weir where they were releasing water due to all the rain. The force and amount of water was spectacular with just two of the gates open. A local told us that only a week ago all the gates had been open and the spray could be seen from the lookout on the hill in town. He said that contributed to the flooding down river around Albury.

Our camp at the Tarrawingee Pub Victoria

Irish band at the Tarrawingee Pub

Under the shade of the grape vine

We got to the pub smack on 1, set up our camp, privately situated in a small mown paddock behind the pub under a pepper tree. We made ourselves a salad lunch then put on cossies and enjoyed a cool outdoor shower off the rear of the van to freshen up and cool down. It was a hot day (haven’t had many of those since we’ve been away…) It turned out to be an Irish band and they played for three hours. We were a very attentive audience and they played Ashokan Farewell for Pete. Our rent was to have a meal and a drink at the pub – which we happily did on Sunday night - in the garden under the grape vine in the evening light. An enjoyable stay in country Victoria – another recommended stay. The nights do not become dark in Victoria nor Tasmania until 9.30pm. We are getting used to it but it means we often eat late. 

Last camp before Melbourne
at Wiki camp Gemfields

There were a few days as we neared Melbourne where I got very flat for a few reasons - not least because I would not see my daughter Danika who lives there. I am not going to dwell here but this story would not be authentic if I did not acknowledge this very painful truth - and sometimes I just have to sit with the sadness - there is nothing else for it. I attempted a few avenues in the hope she would see me but in the end I have to respect her boundaries. 😢

Pete caught a trout!

Our trout dinner - (with roses alla
Pete from Geelong Showground)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped off at a Trout Farm so Pete could catch a fish - he was desperate to get a fish on his line! I was being a sad sack so he got out of the car and sat by a pond in the establishment and had a ball, throwing burley into the water until eventually one of the fish he caught could not be taken off the line and survive, and so he became our dinner a couple of nights later. 

Geelong Waterfront locals

We stayed at Gemfields - a wiki camp 60km out of Melbourne in the front yard of a large private property under some huge pine trees. It was cold and drizzly but Pete managed a fire. If we'd have had time I would have loved to take Pete on the Puffing Billy which I went on as a child and in turn took my kids on in 2001 when we were travelling around Australia. Pete loves steam trains having travelled on them also as a child up the Blue Mountains. I'm sure we'll find another on our travels. Then into Melbourne on 6th Dec for our caravan service, a car brake apt, and on to Geelong Showground to camp for several days until embarking the Spirit of Tasmania on 10th Dec. Geelong was a very easy place to be for that time, we found a laundromat, Pete had a drs apt, we enjoyed the historic Geelong Waterfront - such a quaint place with old timber sea baths complete with diving boards, fish n chip and seagulls, pavillions and kiosks. The water was crystal clear and I really wish I had gone back to the car and got my cossie and dived in. I intend to on our return after Tasmania. Instead we jumped on board a little train ride which meanders its way along the boardwalk to the ferris wheel and back. Very reminiscent of the Manly Harbour Pool of my childhood (minus the train). 

Life guards at Eastern Beach Geelong Waterfront

Manly Harbour Pool of my childhood

Geelong Waterfront

On board our little train ride

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Geelong Waterfront Pool - wish I had swum

 

Eastern Beach Geelong Waterfront

Art installation by Pete

Painting Arthur's bar mitzvah sign made by Spence

 

While at Geelong Pete and I were looking at some intriguing art works online - Pete is not always sure about what can be called art and so he created an installation himself - see pic. I laughed and laughed. 😂

 

 

 

 

The highlight of being in Melbourne was seeing my son Spencer on the 9th Dec. He intended to come out and camp with us at the showground on the Friday night before we sailed - however a late job came in that he was compelled to do; and so I drove in to Brunsick and sat with him while he worked in his shed. He had a timber sign made by another mate, which read Arthur's, and painted it white for a young man's bar mitzvah the next day. It was an extravagant event for a thirteen year old and a well paid job. He was helping out a friend last minute. Spence, his friend and I went to dinner at the Union Hotel in Brunsick after the sign was ready and before he installed it at the bar mitzvah venue. We had a beer and a delicious eggpant shnitzel and that was that - short and sweet. Hopefully he can come to Tasmania during our four months and camp for a bit - that is the plan, but of course, plans can change. Fingers Crossed. 

Dinner with my now 30 year old son Spencer

Spencer's shed - shared with others

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The very sad news on the morning of the 9th was that my dear friend Deb passed away in the early hours. Just one week after arriving at her cousin's house to be cared for on the Central Coast. Pete and I were laying in bed when Susie rang - I knew when the phone rang it was so. As I looked out the window I saw an angel in the clouds. RIP dearest Deb - I still can't believe you are gone. Too fast and too soon for those of us who remain - but hopefully timely for you. 💔